| Introduction
A couple months ago I started out on a mission to
build a home arcade system. I wanted to play
all the classic video games as well as those console
favorites. I played around with emulators
before on my PC so I knew a little bit how it all
worked. After months of researching and visiting
a lot of different websites, I came up with an economical
plan that didn't require too much time and the end
result was a highly polished professional arcade
system.
In this article I outline every component that
was purchased, how much was spent, and my reasoning
behind each one. I only wish I had this information
when I started to build my own arcade as the majority
of it was scattered throughout websites and forums.
This is why I'm posting this information so you
can save a lot of time and money. There are
many factors to consider--You could drop $3,000
and buy a complete arcade system that plays maybe
100 games, or you could assemble your own for about
half the price and play thousands of games. The
choice was an easy one for me.
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My custom built Arcade Cabinet! |
1.
Arcade Cabinet
The arcade machine all starts with an empty cabinet.
You have some options to consider--buy a used arcade
machine and gut it, buy cabinet pieces to assemble,
or just buy the plans and start from scratch.
I decided to go the easiest route that still gave
me control over the components so I ordered pre-cut
pieces. I'm no stranger to power tools, but
I felt the time it would take didn't out way the
costs of just buying the pieces and assembling.
I ordered the UAII cabinet kit from MameRoom Designs.
The cabinet arrived in multiple boxes and were of
good quality. All the parts were labeled with lettered
stickers and the build instructions were easy to
follow. It wasn't all puppy dogs and ice cream,
as a lot of the pieces were damaged like they had
been dropped. There were a couple pieces they
forgot to send and a few were duplicates. I question
their QA process, however, they were really good
about it and immediately shipped new pieces.
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UAII Cabinet Kit - $460 + $125 shipping
MameRoom Designs |
2.
Controls – SlikStik Classic Unit
You can build your own controls by ordering the
individual buttons, trackball, spinner, wires, and
what's called an I-PAC controller and plug it into
your PC or you can order pre-built controls that
fit cleanly into the cabinet and easily connect
to your PC. Once again I'm no stranger to
wiring things up, but I do have that full time job
that cuts into my time and I actually wanted to
complete this before winter.I ordered the Classic
Unit panel and added the midnight blue overlay.
I highly recommend an overlay as it makes the controls
look like a real arcade system. The painful
thing is it took almost 5 weeks from when I ordered
to the day it was delivered. The construction
and overall quality is superb and definitely worth
the wait.
The Classic Unit has has a trackball, spinner, and
2 main joysticks. They have other models available
with 4 player controls too. Installation is as easy
as plugging 3 USB cables into your PC. One cable
is keyboard output which maps the joysticks and
most buttons to regular keys, and two mouse cables
for trackball and spinner knob.
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SlikStik Classic Unit - $500

Midnight Blue Overlay - $80
Note: SlikStik has gone out of business.
Please see our
forums for more information.I'm currently
recommending
MameRoom Designs for controllers if you do
not want to build your own. They have very
similar models.
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3.
27” Toshiba TV - $65 (used)
I bought a 27” TV from a friend after spending weeks
searching craigslist for one that had power-return.
This feature isn’t something you hear much about
but is important for a game cabinet. It means if
power goes out, it will turn itself back on and
to the correct channel. The reason you need this
is you won’t have easy access to the power button
and the bezel will cover the IR port so the remote
won't work either. The model I got also had S-Video
and a high comb filter which displays graphics and
text cleanly at 800x600 resolution. All the
classic games look great on it.
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Toshiba 27" TV
www.toshiba.com
|
4.
PC – Dell 2.4 Ghz
This was my old PC and I put a fresh install of
Windows XP Home Edition on it and used an old graphics
card--the ATI all-in-wonder w/ S-Video out. I tried
using a newer nVidia GeForce 4 card but the S-Video
on it was horrible and after reading that other
people had similar issues I would suggest sticking
with ATI if your buying a new card.One thing
to note is a high-end graphics card isn't really
needed as emulators use more CPU than anything else.
I’d suggest go middle of the road for both your
graphics card and CPU. It doesn’t take much to power
these games from 1980.
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Dell PC
www.dell.com
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5.
Lighted Marquee
I ordered the marquee from Mame Marquee. I think
the blue lightning effect looks sharp and matches
the midnight blue overlay on the control panel.
I bought a Fluorescent Light Fixture from Happ Controls.
It didn’t come with a plug so I had to take an old
extension cord and splice it together.
Finally I bought two pieces of clear Plexiglas cut
to fit from my local hardware store, sandwiched
the Marquee in between the two pieces, and installed
the light fixture behind it. The lightning
bolts coming out of the Mame logo look awesome when
lighted.
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Mame Marquee - $20
www.mamemarquee.com

Fluorescent Light Fixture - $10
www.happcontrols.com
Plexiglas - $8
Local Hardware Store
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6.
Monitor Bezel
Ordered the 27” Monitor bezel from Happ Controls
and used a utility knife to trim to fit. This hides
everything on the TV except the screen. I
got lucky in that it fit perfectly against the screen
and the T-molding held it in place without Velcro
or tape.
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27" Monitor Bezel
www.happcontrols.com |
| 7.
Sound I used a sub-woofer I already had and
bought Cyber Acoustic Speakers to mount above the
pre-cut speaker holes. Keep in mind that your
arcade can also double as a jukebox, so make sure
you get something that sounds decent.
I removed the screens from these speakers which
revealed 6 empty holes. I took a couple screws and
put them halfway into the cabinet and then slide
the speakers onto the screws. It held pretty
good by itself, but I also reinforced it with some
good old duct tape.
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Cyber Acoustic Speakers - $30
www.bestbuy.com |
8.
Smart Power Strip
This is a really slick power strip that allows you
to have one device be the control power for numerous
other devices. For example, my PC is the control
so if I power it up then the strip powers on the
other devices which include the TV, marquee lights,
and sound.
If I shutdown the PC then all the other devices
will also shutdown. I can access the PC's
power button by opening the coin door.
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SCTG4 - $30
www.smarthomeusa.com
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9.
Coin Door
The coin door was the last touch to the arcade which
is just for looks and has no real function.
The arcade games do require a coin to be inserted
prior to playing. However, the control panel
has coin buttons to trigger this event.The door
was ordered from Happ Controls and came with yellow
coin reject buttons. You can save money by
not ordering the entire coin door system as the
UAII plans state, but instead just get what you
see from the outside. I have listed this part
number on the right and it's all you need.
The coin door comes with yellow buttons installed
which didn't fit my color scheme so I ordered blue
buttons and swapped them out. I took an old
power supply and wired up the included 14V light
bulbs. It was a nice final touch to the arcade.
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Coin Door – $55
Part# 40-0008-02
www.happcontrols.com

Blue Reject Buttons (2) - $10
Part# 42-0517-02
www.happcontrols.com
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10.
Game Emulators
Emulators are what you need to drive your arcade
games which are called ROMs. Your PC is way
more powerful than the original hardware that ran
all those classic games and there is a whole community
dedicated towards writing emulators to play them.
There are many emulators out there and what follows
are my favorites:MAME (Multiple Arcade Machine
Emulator) is probably the best known emulator in
the world and plays the majority of your classic
arcade games. If your running Windows, you'll
want to use Mame32 which gives a nice GUI around
the MAME engine. You'll need MAME to run games
like Pac-Man, Joust, Asteroids, Donkey Kong, Golden
Tee, and about 3,000 more.
SNES has numerous emulators and I found Nestopia
to be the easiest to get up and running. Super
Mario Brothers and Zelda are games you just have
to play.
The Sega Genesis has a great emulator called
Fusion. The fast paced Sonic the Hedgehog
makes it a requirement to download.
The Atari 2600 can be played using the Stella
emulator. This console was introduced in 1977
and the games were very simple. If you remember
Combat, Pitfall, and Kaboom! then you have to get
it.
Daphne is an emulator that plays those classic
arcade laser disc games. As a kid I remember watching
others play Dragon's Lair but I never did because
it was too expensive. Now you can play as
much as you like without a bankroll of quarters.
The ROMs (games) are very easy to find by searching
Google, but remember most of them are copyright
so you'll need to check if your legally allowed
to run them. ;)
The hardest thing to find were the laserdisc’s
for Daphne. You can buy them online or use bittorrent
to download the MPEG files.
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MAME Emulator - Free!
www.mame.net
MAME32 - Free!
www.classicgaming.com/mame32qa/

Nestopia SNES Emulator - Free!
www.sourceforge.net/projects/nestopia

Fusion Sega Emulator - Free!
www.eidolons-inn.net

Stella Atari 2600 Emulator - Free!
stella.sourceforge.net

Daphne Emulator - Free!
www.daphne-emu.com
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| 11.
Front Loader I wanted my arcade system to
look like a real arcade system and not a Windows
PC. This requires removing the Windows boot-up
screen, login screen, mouse cursors, and background
colors. It is actually possible to customize
it so there is no trace of Windows. The best
resource I found for doing all of this was here:
Arcade Controls - Hiding Windows
I wanted the arcade to boot directly into what’s
called a front loader. Front loaders provide an
easy way to select an emulator and game to play
without ever seeing Windows Explorer. There are
many front loaders out there, some free, some cost
a few bucks, and after trying almost 20 different
ones I decided on Maximus Arcade. It is very easy
to configure and navigate games with a joystick
or trackball. It also includes a MP3 player jukebox
which is a nice feature.
The best free front loader I found was AtomicFE.
Another good front loader to check out is GameEx
which is far more extensive than all others but
looked too much like Windows Media Center for my
taste.
|

Maximus Arcade - $25
www.maximusarcade.com
GameEx - $25
www.tomspeirs.com/gameexAtomicFE - Free!
www.atomicfe.com
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| The
Final Result I have over 7,000 different games
available on my arcade system. I use the favorites
menu to keep track of the ones my friends and I
play the most. If I had to create a most played
list it would include:
1. Golden Tee 2k
2. Berzerk
3. Track and Field
4. Hyper Sports
5. Missile Commander
6. Galaga
7. Dragon’s Lair
8. NBA Jam
9. Defender
10. Super Mario Brothers 1 and 3
11. Zelda
12. Joust
13. Q-Bert
14. Pac Man
15. Ms. Pac Man
16. Centipede
17. Street Fighter
18. Mortal Kombat 3
19. Dig Dug
20. Asteroids
It's been a lot of fun discovering games that I
played as a kid and competing with your friends
for high score. Now that it's in my bar room
next to the kegulator there has been many late nights
of drinking, gaming, and tough talk.
I wish I could say this project is done, but
something tells me I'll be tweaking it for years
to come.
I highly recommend building your own arcade machine.
The process of building it was almost as fun as
playing the games themselves. Almost. :)
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