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Introduction A couple months ago I started out on a mission to build a
home arcade system. I wanted to play all the classic
video games as well as those console favorites. I
played around with emulators before on my PC so I knew a
little bit how it all worked. After months of
researching and visiting a lot of different websites, I came up with an economical plan that didn't require too much time and
the end result was a highly polished professional arcade
system.
In this article I outline every component that was
purchased, how much was spent, and my reasoning behind each
one. I only wish I had this information when I started
to build my own arcade as the majority of it was scattered
throughout websites and forums. This is why I'm
posting this information so you can save a lot of time
and money. There are many factors to consider--You could drop $3,000
and buy a complete arcade system that plays maybe 100 games,
or you could assemble your own for about half the price and
play thousands of games. The choice was an easy one for me.
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My custom built Arcade Cabinet! |
1.
Arcade Cabinet
The arcade machine all starts with an empty cabinet.
You have some options to consider--buy a used arcade
machine and gut it, buy cabinet pieces to assemble,
or just buy the plans and start from scratch.
I decided to go the easiest route that still gave me
control over the components so I ordered pre-cut
pieces. I'm no stranger to power
tools, but I felt the time it would take didn't out
way the costs of just buying the pieces and
assembling.I ordered the UAII cabinet kit from
MameRoom Designs. The cabinet
arrived in multiple boxes and were of good
quality. All the parts were labeled with lettered stickers
and the build instructions were easy to follow.
It wasn't all puppy dogs and ice cream, as a lot of
the pieces were damaged like they had been dropped.
There were a couple pieces
they forgot to send and a few were duplicates. I
question their QA process, however, they were really good about it
and immediately shipped new pieces.
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UAII Cabinet Kit - $460 + $125 shipping
www.mameroom.com |
2. Controls – SlikStik Classic Unit
You can build your own controls by ordering the
individual buttons, trackball, spinner, wires, and
what's called an I-PAC controller and plug it into
your PC or you can order pre-built controls that fit cleanly
into the cabinet and easily connect to your PC.
Once again I'm no stranger to wiring things up, but
I do have that full time job that cuts into my time
and I actually wanted to complete this before
winter.I ordered the Classic Unit panel
and added the midnight blue overlay. I highly
recommend an overlay as it makes the controls look
like a real arcade system. The painful thing
is it took almost 5 weeks from when I ordered to the
day it was delivered. The construction and overall quality is superb and
definitely worth the wait.
The Classic Unit has has a trackball, spinner, and 2 main
joysticks. They have other models available with 4 player
controls too. Installation is as easy as plugging 3 USB
cables into your PC. One cable is keyboard output which maps
the joysticks and most buttons to regular keys, and two
mouse cables for trackball and spinner knob. Note:
SlikStik has gone out of business. Please see
our
forums for more information
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SlikStik Classic Unit - $500

Midnight Blue Overlay - $80
Note: SlikStik has gone out of business.
Please see our
forums for more information |
3. 27” Toshiba TV - $65 (used)
I bought a 27” TV from a friend after spending weeks
searching craigslist for one that had power-return. This feature isn’t
something you hear much about but is important for a game
cabinet. It means if power goes out, it will turn itself
back on and to the correct channel. The reason you need this
is you won’t have easy access to the power button and the
bezel will cover the IR port so the remote won't work either. The model I got also had
S-Video and a
high comb filter which displays graphics and text cleanly at 800x600
resolution. All the classic games look great on it.
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Toshiba 27" TV
www.toshiba.com
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4. PC – Dell 2.4 Ghz
This was my old PC and I put a fresh install of Windows XP
Home Edition on it and used an old graphics card--the ATI
all-in-wonder w/ S-Video out. I tried using a newer nVidia
GeForce 4 card but the S-Video on it was horrible
and after reading that other people had similar
issues I would suggest sticking with ATI if your
buying a new card.One thing to note is a high-end
graphics card isn't really needed as emulators use more CPU than anything else.
I’d suggest go middle of the road for both your graphics
card and CPU. It doesn’t take much to power these games from
1980.
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Dell PC
www.dell.com
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5.
Lighted Marquee
I ordered the marquee from Mame
Marquee. I think the blue lightning effect looks sharp and
matches the midnight blue overlay on the control
panel.I bought a Fluorescent Light Fixture from Happ Controls. It didn’t come with a plug so I
had to take an old extension cord and splice it together.
Finally I bought two pieces of clear Plexiglas cut
to fit from my local hardware store, sandwiched the
Marquee in between the two pieces, and installed the
light fixture behind it. The lightning bolts
coming out of the Mame logo look awesome when
lighted.
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Mame Marquee - $20
www.mamemarquee.com

Fluorescent Light Fixture - $10
www.happcontrols.com
Plexiglas - $8
Local Hardware Store
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6.
Monitor Bezel
Ordered the 27” Monitor bezel from Happ Controls and used a
utility knife to trim to fit. This hides everything on the
TV except the screen. I got lucky in that it fit
perfectly against the screen and the T-molding held
it in place without Velcro or tape.
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27" Monitor Bezel
www.happcontrols.com |
| 7.
Sound I used a sub-woofer I already had and
bought Cyber Acoustic Speakers to mount above the pre-cut speaker
holes. Keep in mind that your arcade can also double
as a jukebox, so make sure you get something that
sounds decent.
I removed the screens from these speakers which revealed
6 empty holes. I took a couple screws and put them
halfway into the cabinet and then slide the speakers
onto the screws. It held pretty good by
itself, but I also reinforced it with some good old
duct tape.
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Cyber Acoustic Speakers - $30
www.bestbuy.com |
8.
Smart Power Strip
This is a really slick power strip that allows you to have
one device be the control power for numerous other devices.
For example, my PC is the control so if I power it up then
the strip powers on the other devices which include the TV,
marquee lights, and sound.
If I shutdown the PC then all the
other devices will also shutdown. I can access the
PC's power button by opening the coin door. |

SCTG4 - $30
www.smarthomeusa.com
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9. Coin Door
The coin door was the last touch to the arcade which
is just for looks and has no real function. The arcade games do require a coin to be inserted
prior to playing. However, the control panel
has coin buttons to trigger this event.The door
was ordered from Happ Controls and came with yellow
coin reject buttons. You can save money by not
ordering the entire coin door system as the UAII
plans state, but instead just get what you see from
the outside. I have listed this part number on
the right and it's all you need. The coin door
comes with yellow buttons installed which didn't fit
my color scheme so I ordered blue buttons
and swapped them out. I took an old power supply and
wired up the included 14V light bulbs. It was a nice final touch
to the arcade. |

Coin Door – $55
Part# 40-0008-02
www.happcontrols.com

Blue Reject Buttons (2) - $10
Part# 42-0517-02
www.happcontrols.com
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10.
Game Emulators
Emulators are what you need to drive your arcade
games which are called ROMs. Your PC is way
more powerful than the original hardware that ran
all those classic games and there is a whole
community dedicated towards writing emulators to
play them.
There are many emulators out there and what follows
are my favorites:MAME (Multiple Arcade Machine Emulator) is
probably the best known emulator in the world and
plays the majority of your classic arcade games.
If your running Windows, you'll want to use Mame32
which gives a nice GUI around the MAME engine.
You'll need MAME to run games like Pac-Man, Joust,
Asteroids, Donkey Kong, Golden Tee, and about 3,000
more.
SNES has numerous emulators and I found
Nestopia to be the easiest to get up and running.
Super Mario Brothers and Zelda are games you just
have to play.
The Sega Genesis has a great emulator called Fusion.
The fast paced Sonic the Hedgehog makes it a
requirement to download.
The Atari 2600 can be played using the Stella
emulator. This console was introduced in 1977
and the games were very simple. If you remember
Combat, Pitfall, and Kaboom! then you have to get
it.
Daphne
is an emulator that plays those classic arcade laser disc games.
As a kid I remember watching others play Dragon's
Lair but I never did because it was too expensive.
Now you can play as much as you like without a
bankroll of quarters.
The ROMs
(games) are very easy to find by searching Google, but
remember most of them are copyright so you'll need to check
if your legally allowed to run them. ;)
The hardest thing to find were the laserdisc’s for Daphne.
You can buy them online or use bittorrent to download the
MPEG files. |

MAME Emulator - Free!
www.mame.net
MAME32 - Free!
www.classicgaming.com/mame32qa/

Nestopia SNES Emulator - Free!
www.sourceforge.net/projects/nestopia

Fusion Sega Emulator - Free!
www.eidolons-inn.net

Stella Atari 2600 Emulator - Free!
stella.sourceforge.net

Daphne Emulator - Free!
www.daphne-emu.com
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| 11.
Front Loader I wanted my arcade system to look
like a real arcade system and not a Windows PC.
This requires removing the
Windows boot-up screen, login screen, mouse cursors, and
background colors. It is actually possible to
customize it so there is no trace of Windows. The
best resource I found for doing all of this was here:
wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Hiding_Windows
I wanted the arcade to boot directly into what’s called a
front loader. Front loaders provide an easy way to select an
emulator and game to play without ever seeing Windows
Explorer. There are many front loaders out there, some free,
some cost a few bucks, and after trying almost 20 different
ones I decided on Maximus Arcade. It is very easy to
configure and navigate games with a joystick or trackball.
It also includes a MP3 player jukebox which is a nice
feature.
The best free front loader I found was AtomicFE. Another good front loader to check out is GameEx
which is far more extensive than all others but looked too much like Windows
Media Center for my taste. |

Maximus Arcade - $25
www.maximusarcade.com
GameEx - $25
www.tomspeirs.com/gameexAtomicFE - Free!
www.atomicfe.com
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| The
Final Result I have over 7,000 different games available on
my arcade system. I
use the favorites menu to keep track of the ones my
friends and I play the most. If I had to create a most
played list it would include:
1. Golden Tee 2k
2. Berzerk
3. Track and Field
4. Hyper Sports
5. Missile Commander
6. Galaga
7. Dragon’s Lair
8. NBA Jam
9. Defender
10. Super Mario Brothers 1 and 3
11. Zelda
12. Joust
13. Q-Bert
14. Pac Man
15. Ms. Pac Man
16. Centipede
17. Street Fighter
18. Mortal Kombat 3
19. Dig Dug
20. Asteroids
It's been a lot of fun discovering games that I played as a kid
and competing with your friends for high score.
Now that it's in my bar room next to the kegulator
there has been many late nights of drinking, gaming,
and tough talk.
I wish I could say this project is done, but
something tells me I'll be tweaking it for years to
come.
I highly recommend building your own arcade
machine. The process of building it was almost as
fun as playing the games themselves. Almost.
:)
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